Hashtag 'Shop consciously'...
Author’s Bio - Angela Benjamin of Ange B Designs, is a sustainable jewellery designer and maker based in West London. Angela works exclusively with recycled precious metals and ethically-sourced gemstones.
If you’d have asked me ten or even five years ago what the word ‘sustainable’ meant in the context of fashion and accessories, my immediate thoughts would have been floaty, neutral-coloured garments made of hemp or organic cotton and gaudy glass bead jewellery bought wholesale from developing countries. If I’m honest, I had very little idea of how the clothes and jewellery I bought and subsequently wore impacted not only my immediate environment but also the wider world. I’m guessing I’m not alone in that thinking.
Fast forward to 2020 and I’m sure even a reasonably well-informed seven year old could give you some insight into what ‘sustainability’ means. As an avid podcast listener, I use this as my go-to method for educating myself on all things to do with ethical fashion and environmental consumerism: Common Threads, Wardrobe Crisis and Dressed being my current favourites.
So What is Sustainability?
In my attempt to avoid being too waffly, I thought I’d research the correct definition of ‘sustainability’ and I wasn’t surprised to find there are several but my favourite is:
“Sustainability focuses on meeting the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their needs.”
Now we have all heard the scary stats: textile production is the world’s second most polluting industry after the oil industry. The total greenhouse gas emissions from textile production was 1.2 billion tonnes annually this time last year and accounted for 10% of global carbon emissions. Add to this the cost to human lives in terms of the labour of those producing our clothes, we should all be concerned.
Whilst I don’t profess to be a Greta Thunberg wannabe, I have been making steps in my everyday life to reduce my own carbon footprint. It also seemed like the logical progression to extend these changes to my jewellery business.
Practicing what I preach
I’m making conscious choices to ensure that all of my materials are ethically-sourced. For example, I now exclusively use Ecosilver which is made from 100% recycled silver for all of my work and I also recycled my scrap silver by smelting it whenever I can. Any gemstones I use are either recycled/repurposed from old jewellery or purchased from approved ethical suppliers. I’m also more than happy to reuse my customers old gemstones to create new bespoke jewellery.
Commission made for a client using diamond from her old engagement ring and gemstones from her late mother’s ring.
Be the Change…
I have realised that by dint of the fact that I’m a maker, I am producing something that is adding to the ‘problem’. In my attempt to mitigate my contribution to the mass over-consumption of the Earth’s resources, I’ve recently made the decision to reduce the amount of pieces that make by utilising a waitlist system. So if an item sells out on my website, I will only remake it when someone adds their name to the list. I feel this is a useful way of cutting down on deadstock in my shop, and I can also offer my customers a semi-bespoke service. There’s something about knowing that an item has made specifically you that can be very appealing.
Another way that I’m trying to reduce my output, is by implementing a ‘made to order’ service on my higher priced pieces. This again brings an element of the bespoke service - my customer can request specific sizes or minor design alterations - and I have less expenditure on silver and gems.
Custom order silver bangle
Shop local, think global!
As consumers, it’s easy to feel like it’s all “a bit too much” and wonder what we can do aside from stopping buying ’stuff’ ourselves. Making more considered decisions about how and where we shop, is one important way in which I feel we can all make a difference to how the world’s resources are consumed AND help a small business into the bargain - double the feel-good factor!
This leads me to the final element of my sustainability plan and involves the stockists that I work with. In my quest to align my life values with my business ones, it’s become increasingly important to me that my jewellery work is positioned in places that share my brand ethics. In recent months, I’ve been lucky enough to be approached by three great independent retail outlets who specialise not only in showcasing independent creatives but also champions brands with strong ethical and sustainable values.
PRIOR shop is a lovely independent co-op retail shop and workshop in the heart of Bristol, owned by Rebecca Prior. Rebecca gave me some insight into how her business came about:
“In 2011 when I started making eco conscious products using recycled and reclaimed materials, my design focus was contemporary and polished. At the time so many sustainably made products looked recycled; they had a hippy and overly ‘green’ aesthetic about them. Recycled creations were seen as hobbyest and crafty. I wanted to create products that were high quality and long lasting, a range that would sit comfortably on the shelves of any luxury department store. I wanted to change common opinion and highlight that responsibly designed products can be more valuable, well made and modern than those made irresponsibly. As my products evolved and developed, as did the need for a bigger workshop. An opportunity to take on a retail shop in April 2019 which had more than enough space for my new workshop too. I had met so many fantastic makers over the last 9 years from studios, markets, fairs and events that I thought - why not open a sustainably crafted homewares & accessories store.
It’s been a success and both the local community, and further afield enjoy shopping with us. We all have become much more aware of climate change and making more ethical and sustainable choices, yet it still makes me smile when I tell surprised customers what things are made from: from the organic fabrics from Wales to the recycled silver in stunning jewellery; from inner tube earrings to handmade paper lino prints. People are now much more invested into the history of how things are made and the artist. Covid has been an odd one that’s for sure, but it has fuelled a change in shopping behaviour that had already begun. People really want to purchase things that are unique and long lasting, products made with care and intent.”
PRIOR Shop in Bristol.
Tiff and Lucie are owners of the very stylish Venner Store in Leyton, East London which they opened in 2017, selling gifts and homeware, had this to say about their business:
“We've been running Venner for nearly three years and in that time have developed a loyal following of lovely people who are interested in responsible consumerism. We have become a one-stop-shop for gorgeous gifts and homewares that leave the lightest footprint on our planet.
When making decisions about what to stock in our shop we're keen to offer an alternative to mass production and focus on items that are beautifully designed and carefully made to last. Sustainability for us means minimising any impact on the environment, using recycled or renewable materials and sourcing from independent businesses, mostly based in the UK. It's also about ensuring that everyone involved in the supply chain of our products is treated fairly and properly paid.”
Tiff & Lucie at Venner in Leyton, East London
The newly-launched Plum & Belle is what I would describe as an online emporium of ethically-sourced loveliness - their focus being artisanal homeware, gifts and vintage clothing, all sourced with an emphasis on traceability and transparency. Lucy (the ‘Belle’ half of this duo) had this to say about their business:
“Our mission for Plum & Belle was to show that you could really attain a greater level of sustainability in your choices, without compromising on style or quality. It really doesn’t have to be about sacrifice. There lots of scary, fear-including and shame-inspiring statements out there about our lack of care for the environment and natural resources, which to us can easily lead to people shutting down and turning away from this conversation as a whole. We felt an urgent need to show that there’s also many ways that you can maintain much of your current lifestyle just by being more thoughtful in who you buy from.
We use our ten key values as a filter to ensure that al brands and all products fit in to our exacting sustainable and ethical standards, but we also have standards that are just as high to do with style, quality and efficacy. To us, it’s about getting both sides of the equation to balance without compromise in either direction.”
Stunning vintage kimono from Plum & Belle.
So whilst #shopconsciously might seem like an on-trend, add-on to a catchy Instagram caption, I’d like to think that it means having the option to make better consumer decisions and also points to my own commitment to making considered choices in both my personal and business consumptions!