Collaborative Designs - Things to Consider with Custom Made Commissions

Author’s Bio - Angela Benjamin of Ange B Designs, is a sustainable jewellery designer and maker based in West London. Angela works exclusively with recycled precious metals and ethically-sourced gemstones.

Bespoke jewellery commissions are usually to mark an occasion (for example engagement or wedding rings, anniversary gifts), or are special gifts to loved ones or even oneself. So there is always an element of sentimentality attached. It is because of this that I’m sure I’m not unique as a designer and maker, in feeling a certain amount of pressure when asked to make a custom design piece.

Such requests can also provoke other emotions: feelings of pride at being asked, excitement at the prospect of a new project, apprehension at what the design might entail. However, as my mum always says “not everything is for everyone” - this is something I’ve grown to be at peace with over the 6 years that I’ve been running my little business. Whether it’s the cheeky inquiry about remaking someone else’s designs (er,no!) or simply those that are not complimentary to my own style, I have learnt to say ‘no’ to requests that don’t sit well with my business ethos.

Don’t get me wrong, I love a challenge (I’ve made a Star Trek-inspired engagement ring and more recently a silver fish for a 25th wedding anniversary) but I view every commission as a collaboration and I think it’s really important that I’m as happy with the project as the client is.

Fine Silver and Gold Stacking Rings set with client’s heirloom diamonds

In my quest to make and live as sustainably as possible, I’ve been able to make connections with other creatives and small business owners who not only share my ethical values, but also create bespoke items for their customers. One of my favourite handmade knitwear businesses Knits and Bobs KLR is owned by Kireen Rooney. I was interested to find out what challenges (if any) Kireen faced when presented with requests for custom design pieces.

Kireen of KnitsandBobsKRL doing a spot of ‘wild knitting’

When I asked Kireen what she enjoyed most about creating custom designed pieces, it was great to learn that she “loved having total creative freedom to make something based on very little guidance from the customer”. In contrast, I would find the prospect of a ‘free rein’ slightly terrifying, since I often struggle to narrow down my own designs in the face of too much choice!

When it comes to selection of clients and any commissions she’s turned down, Kireen was very definite about her choice of materials. A core part of her business model is making beautiful sustainable knitted accessories that will last and she only uses natural fibres in her work.

A custom made scarf by Kireen

I know many jewellery makers (myself included) would site pricing as one of their main sticking points when approaching bespoke commission requests. Materials aside, designing and making time are key factors that are often underestimated. One other challenge I had in common with Kireen was sizing. This is particularly relevant for me if I’m working with a client who is not based in the UK. For example, when making a bespoke ring I like to send the client a ring sizer so that I know we are using consistent measurements. Kireen says “all my patterns are created from scratch so adapting them has meant I've had to start again a few times!”

Gone are the days when having something made to order, was just the preserve of the super-wealthy. With the increased profile of artisan makers, the general public can now also indulge in the ‘special’ process of having an item made bespoke for them. Although arguably it may add more of a financial cost to the piece, I believe that having the personal investment of sourcing your maker and participating in the design process (on whatever scale) will increase the sentimental value of the commission. The more you love it, the longer you’ll keep it - sustainable style in a nutshell!

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